Too much fun ?

All the socializing that I have been doing lately is getting to me. I need to slow down a bit. The fiestas continue. I’ve had some fun times and some good meals but I am feeling the need to just hang out in my rig for awhile.

I’m getting a reputation for knowing something about computers and software so some of my new friends are calling on me to help them with problems. Luckily, the problems have been minor and have been easy fixes.

Last Sunday, I partied too much at some of the local bars and the fiesta. I spent too much money on drinks and mariachis. I missed the last bus and even the taxis and ended up hitchhiking back to my camp.

Tuesday night at the Old Posada, I was introduced to some persons from Guadalajara who are what you might describe as upper class Mexicans of European Spanish ancestry and not mestizos. They were fun and enjoyable company. One seemed a little snobbish in that he seemed to have little interest in speaking or learning any English. Of course, it is I who is in a foreign country and who should be speaking better Spanish.

I ran across this on the Web: “For example, after traveling in Mexico and Guatemala, I found that the more European one's blood is (which is evident of one's family background and/or skin complexion), the more wealth one possesses. People with less Spanish or European blood in them, this being mezitos or indigenous people, tend to be atrociously poor. Many of them work as servants for the much richer Castilians or Spaniards. Furthermore, they are often treated with extreme disrespect, solely due to the shade of their skin or family background.”

I heard that tonight is the last night of the fiestas for awhile. Tonight is supposed to be the night with the best fireworks and bands. But I’m going to miss it. Too much fun.

Mary, the jewelry vendor (on the right) at Salvador's

Fiesta booths in Ajijic

Gary in the Beer Saloon

Dave and John in Tom's Bar

Mariachis in The Music Box

Thanksgiving

The Fiestas have continued all this week. I’ve heard that some nights have been a lot of fun with fireworks, bands and dancing but I haven’t been there most nights. The temperature has been cool in the evenings and I am usually too tired from socializing during the day time to continue at night.

On Thanksgiving I was invited to dinner at Judith and Abe’s house. About 20~25 people attended. It was a traditional Thanksgiving feast with all the trimmings. It was as good as any I have ever been to in the States. I think that I was the lone American at the feast. There were about 8 Mexicans and the rest were Canadians and all seemed to enjoy the traditional United States holiday of Thanksgiving. The only difference was that instead of conversation about United States politics, there was talk about Canadian politics and the possible creation of Quebec as a separate country within Canada.

Concert poster

Ron at The Music Box

Fiesta

Saturday night we went to Melanie’s Restaurant for dinner and dancing. I had Veal Milanese which was good. Another good thing about Mexico is you can still find veal on the menu. In the US everybody is so damn PC you can hardly find veal anymore. You also don’t need to wear a helmet on a motorcycle. Viva La Mexico!

Sunday was Turkey Day at Brian and Ursula’s home in San Juan Cosala and a good meal was had by all who attended. The bird had good flavor but was a little tough. I guess we should have gotten it drunk.

Monday was a Fiesta day. I’m not quite sure which one it was. Monday I think is the Fiesta for the patron saint of Ajijic and the rest of the week is Fiesta for the Mexican Revolution. I hear there will be events for about 10 days. I had a couple of Margaritas in El Caja Musical (The Music Box) a bar located right on the town square. The bar is mainly a Mexican bar and I ran into some of the Mexicans I’ve met in town.

Ajijic town square iron work

Dog wears a skirt

Dancing horses as the band plays for Fiesta

Ron and daughter Karen at Tom's Bar

El Boracho dances for the cowboys

The Thing's new speakers protected by custom iron

Glenn playing with Noe and The Classics

Maria and Kas dance to Noe and The Classics

Yolanda and Claire

Melanie's Bar and Restaurant in the Hotel Danza del Sol

Our table at Melanie's

Hotel Danza del Sol pool

Garden & Bikers

Judith's Garden

Bikers

Thursday night, I walked to Brian & Ursala's house in San Juan Cosala. The mission was to help dispatch the turkey. I found a better and shorter way to Brian's house. In the early evening, there were several doors open to houses and tiendas (stores) and the Mexicans were being social hanging out on the street and door ways. I've learned that an acceptible greeting is "Adios" if you are just passing by on your way to some where.

Earlier in the day, we had heard from Rafael, a Peruvian cook who works at Tom's Bar, that you should get the turkey drunk before killing it. Supposedly, this makes the turkey more relaxed, resulting in a bird that is more tender. So Brian, Kas and I were debating about this, whether it was true or another Old Wive's Tale. Al, who is staying in one of Brian's casitas, contributed some vodka and we mixed it with some water and tried to get the turkey to drink it. Ursula and Maria stayed inside, not wanting to witness the deadly deed. The turkey spilled the vodka water so we just went ahead and cut it's head off. We soaked the bird in a bucket with some hot water and then hung it from a ladder and pulled all the feathers off. Kas did the butchering and cleaning.

We thought the turkey meal was to be the next day but Ursula has scheduled it for Sunday now. So Turkey Day will be late for the Canadians and early for the Americans but we will enjoy it and give thanks for the meal and to the turkey.

On my walk back to my camp at about 10 PM, I passed by Jose's house and he saw me walking by and invited me in to meet his wife and youngest son. We talked for awhile and since I had some money with me and my month of parking on Jose's lot is almost up, I went ahead and paid him 1,000 pesos ($91.64 USD or $3.05 a day) to park for another month on his lot.

On Friday, I met Brian at Salvador's and I had the same breakfast that I had my first day in Ajijic, two bacon, two sausage, scrambled eggs with salsa, a waffle and coffee for 35 pesos ($3.21 USD). Brian had a new hat on with a big turkey feather in the brim. He also had a bag of turkey feathers in the Thing that he was giving away to kids or trying to sell to gringos for 10 pesos.

We drove to get the speaker cabinet installed in the Thing and while waiting went to the Sunrise restaurant for more coffee and food. I had orange juice as I had already had enough coffee at Salvador's. Brian drinks about 20 cups of coffee a day.

There is still a problem with the sound system in the Thing. It needs a new cable for the antenna and I think that it needs a new fuse or better wiring to the radio. The radio often reboots itself. The new speakers sound good and should be secure in the new cabinet.

On the way back to Ajijic, we stopped at Judith's house to order some pies. She has a very nice house and gardens. She kindly gave me three large avocados and several oranges from the trees in her back garden.

The Bird

Last Monday Brian and I returned to the market in Chapala. Brian wanted to return a car radio that he had bought the previous week and I was looking for huaraches (sandals). Brian found the car stereo vendor and was careful to talk with him in the back so that he would not embarrass the vendor in front of potential customers. The vendor spoke little English and Brian speaks only a little Spanish even though he has been staying lakeside off and on for nine years. Brian was persistent and successful in getting 600 pesos from the vendor for a radio Brian had paid 850 pesos for the previous week. We both considered the transaction a success because we didn’t think that he would be able to get any of his money back.

I checked three vendors that had sandals but I didn’t see anything I liked. Some looked like leather but were actually molded plastic probably from China. I understand that Mexican product sellers are having a problem with cheaper Asian products now being sold in Mexico.

On Wednesday, I looked for sandals at the smaller Ajijic market and found some I liked. They are a Mexican product, “Pirma”, made from leather with a molded plastic or rubber sole (not tire tread), don’t have a piece that goes between the toes and are fully adjustable with Velcro. They cost 250 pesos ($23.05 USD) which I thought was a little high but I haven’t learned yet how to bargain prices with the Mexican vendors. In speaking with some others, I found out that 250 pesos is the going rate for good sandals so I am satisfied with the deal.

Today Brian and I drove to Riberas to see the fellow that is constructing a custom cabinet for the speakers in the Thing. On the way back, we stopped at a furniture store where Brian knew that they were raising some turkeys in the back yard. He bought a live bird for 400 pesos which seemed really high to me but the bird will probably taste a lot better since it has been raised free range and not in a turkey factory like the birds in the US.

We tied the bird’s legs and put it in the back seat of the Thing on a piece of cardboard which didn’t help much to protect the seats from turkey crap. We were styling now Mexico style cruising with our live stock. The bird in the back seat was quite a hit with all who saw it. We went back to Salvador’s and Brian showed off his new pet (soon to be dinner) until some of the local stray dogs that beg at Salvador’s went after the bird.

Then we bought some beer for Kas and the workers who are re-modeling Kas’s house in Chula Vista. I have mentioned before that the houses in Chula Vista are mainly mansions in the Mexican version of Beverly Hills, next to the nearest golf course. Kas’s house is too big for me but it will certainly be beautiful with mature gardens. If Kas prices it right and I can sell my home in Tahoe, I might just buy it as an investment and live high on the hog for a short while. If I bought that house, I am sure that several of my friends would want to come for a visit.

For those of you who are thinking you might like to move to this area, I want to tell you something to consider. Almost all of the Canadians and Americans who live here are 60 years and older. If you are a single male looking to hook up with a woman, and are looking for some one younger than 60, your only choice will be a Mexican senorita. The young women here almost always wear tight blue jeans and a tight top.

Chapala cow



Chapala Market



Chapala pet birds and turtles for sale



Turkey seller



Brian's new pet at Salvador's

Kas and part of his garden

Pigs

Yesterday, I spent most of the morning on the internet checking out real estate links of Mexican properties mostly here in the Lake Chapala area. I also ran across some links to articles written by Americans living in Mexico and caught up on some Yahoo groups that I follow. By the time I started to think about food and a cup of coffee it was almost noon. I caught the bus into Ajijic and went to Salvador's like I usually do. I got an outside table and coffee. Salvador's was not as busy as it usually is and Brian was not in his office.

Then I remembered that it was Veteran's Day and the American Legion in Chapala was having a pig roast. Roast pig is a favorite food of mine so I decided against eating at Salvador's, finished my coffee and caught the bus to Chapala. I had been told where the American Legion Post #7 was located and found it after a short walk. As I entered the grounds, a fellow named Hank introduced himself and showed me around and introduced me to some of the other members. I bought a ticket (100 pesos) for the meal, got a Corona and sat at one of the tables.

The pig is almost ready for the meal.

Some of the people I spoke with preferred to live in Chapala (instead of other lakeside towns) and rent instead of buying. This idea appeals to me too. However, it would be difficult to find a place where I could park my rig off street.

My mind is still open about living in Mexico and whether it would be right for me or not. The fact remains that gringos are not from this culture; they are strangers in a strange land. Many may be well intentioned and think they can help the Mexicans live a better life like teaching them to not throw their trash on the ground but it also seems to come with a subtle sense of superiority that we know better than they do and we can help "the little brown ones". In the days before the white man came, the trash was organic and soon was recycled by nature.

Some gringo ex-pats try for total immersion in the Mexican culture by living in small towns with no other gringos around and speak only Spanish. But I don't think that even after living that way for 30 years and becoming fluent in Spanish they will still be able to avoid the "blue eyes tax" and be totally accepted. They are still strangers in a strange land.

The pig roast meal was good with beans and Cole slaw but I would have preferred to have had some of the crispy parts and pork skin on my plate. When the entertainment started with karaoke, I decided to take my leave and catch the bus back to my San Juan Cosala camp.

The buses are customized by the drivers with religious icons and their favorite music playing on CD. It is not unusual for their children to ride and help their father make change. On this ride the kids helped also by cleaning up the bus. They picked up discarded plastic drink bottles and papers and threw the basura (trash) out the window. I didn't yell at them or interfere. It may not be right to litter but I am a guest in their country and their father knows best how to teach them to be a good Mexican citizen.

Lakeside

Yesterday my repaired wheel and new tire for the rig were finally ready so I drove the rig for the first time in about three weeks to pick it up. The manager of the tire shop in Jocotepec is a young woman named Rosa who spoke English fairly well. I asked her if she learned English in the States and she told me that her father who had spent time in the US had taught her as a young child. She also told me that she had spent 4 years getting a college degree at a University in Guadalajara. She commuted every school day from Jocotepec to Guadalajara and back. You have to admire her determination to get an education and her father's care and love to help her.

The bill was 1,235 pesos (about $113.93 USD); 985 pesos for the tire, 200 pesos to repair the wheel and 50 pesos to mount it.

Al and I accompanied Brian on a trip to Chapala in his quest to get his radio working right. On the way back we started to look for a new restaurant that we had heard about in San Antonio called the "Sunrise". After getting faulty directions about six times and driving back and forth several times, we finally found it. The restaurant was nice and clean and the food and service was good and inexpensive. The first margarita or drink with a meal was 15 pesos. The November special is $1 for breakfast.

I am finding out that this area may have some aspects to it that may not suit everyone. The weather is so nice that every day seems about the same. This can lead to a sense of boredom for some people. There is a lot to do here and activities you can get involved in but I have heard that many local gringos that live here frequently use this as a home base to explore other area of Mexico. Many spend a couple weeks a year at the beach. Melaque near Manzanillo seems to be a favorite get away. Also several go to Guadalajara (40 minutes away) for cultural activities and to party.

At the Ajijic town square today, I spoke with a Canadian couple from Ontario that had rented a house for six months. They are leaving after only three months stating that the area was too "rustic" to suit them.

This morning I awoke to find a new neighbor at the San Juan Cosala camp. A burro was teathered outside the fence to eat the weeds out there. This is a frequent scene alongside the Mexican caminos and carreteras. Yesterday a horse was hit and killed by a car on the road to Ajijic. I also heard that a Mexican girl (18) waiting for a bus to school was hit by a truck and suffered major injury.

Ajijic town square

My new neighbor at my San Juan Cosala camp.

Mural at Vicki's Hideaway

Off the Road

As you may have noticed, I haven’t updated this blog for a few days. I think this is because not much has been happening that I think would be of interest to my readers. I am not traveling. I am staying in one place. I have been getting out and being social for the most part which is different from my time spent for the last few years in California where I stayed home most of the time and fiddled with my computers. I will try to take the camera with me and look for things to photograph and upload to the blog.

Last Monday, Brian and I went to the Chapala market. It is about 4 or 5 times larger than the Ajijic market with lower prices and more variety. I bought a Franklin English/Spanish translator but have yet to really learn how to use it. I thought that it would speak Spanish phrases but the model I got doesn’t have an audio output so I am not sure how useful it will be or if I will really use it much. Brian bought some speakers to replace those stolen from his Thing. I saw avocados for sale for 15 pesos for 2 kilos. This works out to about 32 cents a pound. The market in Jocotepec is supposed to have the best prices lakeside but I haven’t been to that one yet.

I have been going to some new restaurants and meeting some more new people. The snowbirds are starting to arrive.

This area seems to be getting smaller in the sense that since I know people now I am starting to hear some gossip much as you hear in small towns. This might be of use if I were planning on writing a book of fiction some time but right now I don’t feel comfortable in relating some of the stories I have heard.

The wheel I took in for repair that was supposed to be ready last Saturday with a new tire is still not ready. “Manana”

I recently checked a blog and web site called Mexico with Heart. I had read part of it previously but just now realized that the author, Rosana Hart, lives now in the same small town, San Juan Cosala, where I am staying. Her blog and website have a lot of good information and if you are interested in Mexico, I suggest you check it out at: http://www.mexico-with-heart.com/blog/ .

I have been listening to a FM station from Guadalajara. I think it may be associated with one of the universities there because their selection of music is eclectic to say the least, modern Mexican music, jazz, classical, electronic, modern European and music from the United States that I never heard while in the states.

I probably will be taking a bus trip soon to visit family on the Pacific coast near Manzanillo. It is cheaper to take the bus when you figure gasoline at 10 MPG and toll road fees. It will be more relaxing too. I will be documenting this side trip. Right now my plan is to stay lakeside at Lake Chapala probably until the end of the year. At that time I will either get back on the road or stay lakeside for a while longer.

Lake Chapala

Taken from Ruben's Bar and Grill across the carretera from my San Juan Cosala camp. The lake itself is hard to see through the fence.

Chapala Town Square 2

San Juan Cosala Camp - Ron's Trailer & Truck

San Juan Cosala Mission Cuurch

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San Juan Cosala Rides

Halloween

The evening of Halloween I walked down Colon and stopped in the Beer Saloon for a Margarita and then went to the old Posada for dinner. I had flank steak, frijoles, guacamole and tortillas, what we called Carne Asada when I used to get it in La Jolla. The steak, guacamole and beans were good but the tortillas were not fresh.

Brian, Ursala, Kas and Maria arrived and we got a big table together. They are all quite good dancers and had a good time dancing to the Ron and Sally group. Other guests soon filled up the old Posada, some in costume. I danced a few times and enjoyed myself.

The next morning Ron was driving into Ajijic so I caught a ride with him. We went to Chapala and I dropped off my damaged wheel for repair. It is supposed to be ready with a new tire on Saturday. I had breakfast at Salvador’s. Actually it was lunch since I had fish and chips and coffee. Maria and Kas showed up and I found out that they have bought two condos in a new development called Rancho San Jorge which is located on the lake west of San Juan Cosala and east of Jocotepec. A new small two bedroom condo is going for about $47,000 and they won’t be finished until around April. It will have 24 hour guard service and four swimming pools. I think the monthly condo fee will be around $50. The way this area is growing, a condo here may be a good investment and a nice place to live. It is close to the carretera and the buses. Brian has offered to take me to Rancho San Jorge to check it out.

Wednesday is market day in Ajijic. The street beside Salvador’s is closed for a couple of blocks with booths selling all sorts of items. I bought a surge protector strip to replace the one that was fried the first night I camped at the San Juan Cosala camp for 55 pesos. There is a computer store in Ajijic that had a surge protector with battery backup for 600 pesos but I don’t need battery backup or the added weight. There was a booth selling boot leg copies of software that I will check out in the future but he was too busy that day.

In the evening, I walked the 4 or 5 blocks from my camp into the pueblo of San Juan Cosala. Brian had told me that he thought there would be a parade that was part of the Day of the Dead events. I went to the square and sat for a while watching the kids playing in the square. I brought my camera and wanted to take a picture of the old cathedral but I had forgotten to take the memory chip out of the Vaio and put it back in the camera so I was unable to take any pictures.

While sitting in the square, Jose walked up and we talked for awhile. He said that that night was the cemetery vigil for the departed children and tomorrow night would be the vigil for the adults that had died but he had not heard anything about a parade. San Juan Cosala is very much a Mexican town that does not cater to gringos. There are a few gringos living in town like Brian and Ursala but hardly anyone speaks English and when I asked Jose about a restaurant, he only mentioned one. I am sure that there are small places that the Mexicans eat in but I haven’t explored the town yet. Shortly after dark, I walked back to my camp.

This morning Ron plans to drive into Ajijic to buy a wireless card for his Toshiba lap top so he can use my wireless network and internet connection. So I will catch a ride with him and then hang out at Salvador’s for a while. Every time I go there, I meet new people and get more information about lakeside living.

Ajijic Market

Ajijic Market 1

Ajijic Market 2

Ajijic Market - Brian & Maria